Skin in the Game

For years, I treated skincare like an afterthought.

Water, maybe some lotion if my face felt dry, sunscreen if I could find it—often borrowed from my wife or kids.

Then reality set in.

One day, you look in the mirror, and your skin doesn’t bounce back like it used to. The fine lines linger. The dryness doesn’t go away. And suddenly, the cheap moisturizer from the hotel bathroom isn’t cutting it anymore.

We talk a lot about nutrition, movement, sleep, and stress management as the foundations of longevity. But here’s the truth: your skin is part of the equation, too. It’s not just about looking good—it’s about what’s happening under the surface. Your skin is your first line of defense against infection, pollution, and inflammation. Let it degrade, and you’re not just accelerating wrinkles—you’re weakening your entire system.

So I started digging. What actually works? What’s marketing BS? And how do we keep our skin (and bodies) younger for longer?

Skincare advice is usually either overcomplicated (12-step routines, overpriced serums, confusing ingredient lists) or oversimplified (“just drink more water”). Neither is useful. Instead, let’s break it down into levels. I start with the essentials—the things that matter most—and build up from there. The further you go, the more targeted your approach becomes.

Level 1: Understanding The Science of Skin Aging

Your skin isn’t just getting older—it’s changing at a cellular level.

Collagen and elastin are the proteins that keep skin firm and elastic. As we age, production slows, and existing fibers weaken. The result? Thinner, less resilient skin. It doesn’t just look different—it functions differently.

Then there’s inflammation. Your skin accumulates aging cells (senescent cells)—cells that stop working but refuse to die off. Instead, they release inflammatory chemicals that speed up breakdown and slow down repair. This isn’t just about wrinkles; it affects how well your skin defends itself.

And if that wasn’t enough, pollution attacks your skin daily. Exhaust fumes, industrial chemicals, and even blue light from screens generate free radicals—unstable molecules that damage skin cells at the DNA level. Left unchecked, this damage leads to faster aging, hyperpigmentation, and a weaker skin barrier.

Level 2: The Basics (Get These Right, or Don’t Bother With Anything Else)

If you ignore everything else, focus on this. Without these three things, the rest doesn’t matter.

Cleansing is step one. Your skin collects sweat, oil, pollution, and bacteria all day. Skip washing, and you’re letting that sit on your skin overnight, breaking down its barrier and accelerating aging. But too much washing is just as bad—it strips the skin, disrupts its natural defenses, and makes it more vulnerable. The goal is balance. A gentle, soap-free cleanser at night gets the job done. In the morning, you can get away with rinsing with water.

Moisturizing is next. As you age, your skin loses hydration, collagen, and elasticity. It stops holding itself together, and without support, it dries out, sags, and wrinkles faster. A good moisturizer works in three ways—it attracts water (humectants like hyaluronic acid), locks it in (occlusives like petroleum jelly), and softens the skin (emollients like ceramides or shea butter). You don’t need an expensive one; you can find a reasonably priced one with all three.

And then there’s sunscreen—the easiest, most effective anti-aging tool you’re probably ignoring. UV rays don’t just burn your skin; they break down collagen, create wrinkles, cause hyperpigmentation, and accelerate aging. A broad-spectrum SPF 30+ sunscreen, applied every morning, is non-negotiable. If you live above 45° latitude (Berlin, Munich, London, New York), you might get away with skipping it in winter. Otherwise, put it on.

Neglect these three steps, and you’re undoing everything else.

Level 3: What You Put On Your Skin

At some point, moisturizer alone won’t cut it. That’s where active ingredients come in.

Retinoids—Vitamin A derivatives—are the gold standard for anti-aging. They increase collagen production, increase cell turnover, and help fade wrinkles. Start slow, or your skin will remind you who’s in charge.

Vitamin C is another powerhouse. It brightens, protects against UV damage, and boosts collagen production. Apply it in the morning under sunscreen—it won’t replace SPF, but it makes it more effective.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) doesn’t get as much attention as it should. It regulates oil production, strengthens the skin barrier, and reduces inflammation. If your skin is sensitive to more potent actives, niacinamide is a great way to get results without irritation.

Finally, there are AHAs—alpha hydroxy acids. These chemical exfoliants help shed dead skin cells, revealing smoother, brighter skin. But overdo it, and you’ll compromise your skin barrier. Once or twice a week is enough.

The takeaway? Pick what fits your needs, not what’s trending on social media.

Level 4: What You Eat to Support Your Skin

Skincare isn’t just about what you put on your skin—it’s also about what you put in your body.

Carotenoids—like retinol, retinal, and beta-carotene—help your skin defend itself against UV damage. You’ll find them in carrots, tomatoes, and pumpkins. Vitamin C from citrus, peppers, and strawberries supports collagen production, while Vitamin E in nuts and seeds protects your skin’s lipid barrier. And then there are polyphenols—compounds found in grapes, green tea, and dark chocolate—that activate your skin’s natural antioxidant defenses.

Your skin shows what’s happening inside your body.

Level 5: The Skin Microbiome (Your Natural Defense System)

Your skin isn’t just an organ—it’s an ecosystem. Trillions of bacteria live on your skin, protecting it from infections, inflammation, and environmental damage. However, some people destroy their microbiome without realizing it by overwashing, using harsh cleansers, or scrubbing their skin raw.

To keep it balanced, less is more. Avoid excessive cleansing. Stick to pH-balanced products that don’t strip away beneficial bacteria. Look for ceramides and prebiotics in your moisturizer to strengthen the barrier. Probiotics in fermented foods might help, but research is still developing. One thing is clear: wreck your microbiome, and your skin will let you know.

I’m dialing in this routine—finally using my own products instead of “borrowing” from my wife. Skincare is not separate from health—it’s part of it. It’s about how your body ages, inside and out. Stick to the basics. Add proven ingredients when needed. Ignore the hype.

Your skin will thank you and help you stay healthy.

Andre

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A note for new readers:

I’m a trained reconstructive facial surgeon, medical doctor, and dentist by training. Before launching my newsletter, I had a varied career: I was a competitive freestyle wrestler, a management consultant (McKinsey), an entrepreneur (Zocdoc, Thermondo, and docdre ventures), and a corporate executive (Sandoz). Today, I’m a Managing Director and Partner at BCG.

If this is your first time here, welcome. I’m excited to share what I’ve learned—and will continue to learn—with you.

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DISCLAIMER:

Let’s get one thing straight: None of this—whether text, graphics, images, or anything else—is medical or health advice. This newsletter is here to inform, educate, and (hopefully) entertain you, not to diagnose or treat you.

Yes, I’m a trained medical doctor and dentist. No, I’m not your doctor. The content here isn’t a replacement for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment.

If you have questions about your health, talk to your physician or a qualified health professional. Don’t ignore their advice or delay getting care because of something you read in Health, Redefined. Be smart. Do your research. And, as always, take care of yourself.